Day 13: What more could I ask for?

I turned off my alarms around 6:00 because I thought the announcements over the loud speaker would wake me up, but I slept through them till about 8:00. That was fine because it was coming off of the high tide from the early morning. I walked down the beach to Bira Reef because the wind looked better and there was no one out there. The tide was draining and the reef was showing its teeth. To be honest I was a little nervous surfing the reef as the tide was dropping because reefs are still new to me. I mean, I’ve surfed at Strands and Salt Creek before but this reef is different.

NO falling allowed!

I surfed all by myself for about 30 min before the crowd showed up. I got a hand full of good waves in the morning. However, if you make a bad wave selection, the ocean will always rub it in your face and show you what you missed behind it.

I got out and walked back o the beach house and ate some food. Konosuke’s friend was going to take me to a different place to surf in the afternoon. so I waited to hear from him. It turns out that he took me back to Bira Reef thinking that I was just surfing Tebiro in the morning. But the tide was coming back up and it was turning on.

Bira Reef

I went out without the camera first just to see how it would be and that was a mistake because I caught some of the best waves of the day at that time. Oh well. That is just for me and my memory. While I was out there, I talked to some of the locals from the island and another guy from Chiba (my next destination). When I came in to get the camera, another local asked where I was from and I said near Huntington Beach in California. We chatted and he said he was going to surf Tebiro next and I said I’d meet min down there in about an hour. I went back out at Bira for a wile before going to Tebiro.

The lip smacking me in the face.

After I surfed Tebiro for a bit, I went in to get a snack and later saw a message from Konosuke inviting me to dinner at his house. I had just enough time to surf Tebiro before the sun ran out. I got some ok waves during last light but there was a lot of people out, and the tide was building: shutting it down.

Konoseke’s friend Ren picked me up to take him to Ko’s house, and we also picked up one of the guys I was surfing with at Bira (Katsu). When I arrived, I was greeted by Konosuke and a bunch of his other friends. It was island style and and there was a hand full of kids there. Dinner was a traditional Amamian chicken soup with vegetables over rice and some local wild boar, so I could not say no to that. It was great getting to know Konosuke’s family and friends, most of who were native to the island. The others escaped the mainland in order to pursue a happier more relaxed life style. I always told Ko and his friends to come to California and visit. It is always the sharing of culture and dialogue that is the key to peace across nations. A great day in all. 3 surf sessions, dinner with good friends. What more could I ask for?


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