Day 14: An Island tour

I woke up early to watch the sunrise from the beach with my coffee in hand. It was high tide and the swell had dropped a bit.

I soon headed back around the cove to Bira Reef to see what it looked like. It was small and the swell was a little too north for the spot. I found my host Tatsu out in the water though. We caught some waves and he went in; I followed shortly after. As the tide was dropping as I walked back, I just gazed; amazed at the exposed reef. The sharp points and holes from bubbling lava pools long ago. I could only imagine what it looked like at the time the island was forming. It looked like a foreign planet in some places.

I got back to the guest house and made lunch. Later that day Ko picked me up and we went looking for a place to surf. He ended up taking me all around the island showing me the different spots. Sadly there was not a lot of swell anywhere today. So many point breaks and reefs that I knew that would go off during a good swell, I just wasn’t there at the right time.

After a trip around the northern part of the island, we finally paddled out at a place I think was called Tsuno. It was Ko’s local break. We had to jump off of this pier and paddle almost 10 min to the reef.

The water was incredibly clear and the reef was just beneath my feet as I sat on my board. It was windy and small but I could tell that on a good day this place was amazing; and dangerous as hell. How close the reef was on even a day like this made me a little nervous. Trying to dig my tail before I paddled for a wave was impossible because it would scrape on the bottom if I did. We were still able to get a few waves. and I was just glad to surf a new spot and see the potential for this wave when I would come back. Afterwards, he took me back to my guest house and I said goodby for the last time until I would come back because I was leaving the island the next day. I was just so grateful to meet such great new friends.

When I got back to the guest house, there were some new guys staying for the night. I chatted with one of them, Kenji, for a while. He came to the island on business doing IT for his company. I mentioned that I was from Long Beach, and he told me that he often goes to LA for business. Then asked if I had been to Torrance. I told him that I often go to Torrance because there is good Japanese there food like Shin-Sen-Gumi. He was surprised that I knew of the place and said that his good friend is the owner. It’s a small world when you start talking to people.


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