Day 4: Pumping Surf

I woke up around 7:00 hearing some guys speaking in Japanese and came out of my room. It was the hostel host Masa and his kids getting ready to go surf. In Japanese, I was asking how the surf was and if he would wait for me so we could go together. He responded saying the surf was head high and pumping and it was only a 3 min walk to the beach and would wait for me to get ready. Another gaijin was standing by hearing the conversation and was surprised at my Japanese, saying, “your Japanese is good.” To which Masa responded, maybe he’s Japanese. 😂 we all had a good laugh at that. Next we headed down to the beach.

In the water, being the only non Japanese person out there, I try to be full of smiles and say hi to a lot of people, and try not to surf aggressively like in California. On my first wave. Someone took off in front of me and I tried to signal for him to keep going, but he bailed out. After that first session, I got out and texted my family goodbye saying that I may never leave here… lol.

After my morning session I went in search of food and groceries by bike. I found Okonomiyaki that had all vegetables. Oishi!


After lunch I came back and had a nap before an evening session for the last 45 min of light. After I came in and showered, I greeted another person checking into Pumping Surf with a “konbanwa” (good evening). He looked a little surprised, I guess because I’m a white guy speaking Japanese. Later I introduced myself to him. His name is Karibu, and he is from Tokyo. Eager to practice my Japanese, I hung in the kitchen with him and chatted with him. I learned that he lived in Toronto for two years and he spoke good English too. We hung out for the evening and I later found out the reason he was so surprised when I first said hi to him was because of my pronunciation and thought maybe I’ve been living in Japan for a long time… I wish. 😂 Later, we decided to get up in the morning and watch the sunrise and check the surf.


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