Day 17: Bike ride to a new surfing buddy

I took my time getting up and had my pan and coffee. Takeo San and I went to the store the next morning to get some provisions and invited me to have dinner with him and his friend Kagami. On the way, we passed by his friends surf caffe and recommended that I go there later when it opened. He was an Australian that had been living here since 1988. the locals in the countryside were unhappy to have a non Japanese open a surf shop in the countryside nearby so he made it a caffe with surf-ware instead.

Sunrise view form my window

When I got back to the house, I had a snack and jumped on the bike to head to the surf shop. When I got there, it was closed. It was blowing offshore and I knew there was swell, so I assumed that he was surfing. So I headed back to the house to get a board and find a place to surf.

On the way to the caffe
loading up the bike

When I got to the coast the wind was a little north and looked better up the coast as the cove began to wrap around, so I biked along this dirt path that was being fixed from the damage done by the last typhoon.

Typhoon struck road

After about an hour and a half of riding and walking through a swampy wet fox trail and up the sand dunes, I found a place that looked pretty good. Then I took a break for a snack then walked up and around some sand dune peaks and saw that it was better on the other side of the harbor. So I got back on the bike and went around, back over the bridge and up the other end of the harbor and found this little pier.

On the other side of the harbor the waves were firing. I parked the bike and jumped off the pier and caught a long left and joined the crowd of people in the distance. I caught a few of the rights and managed the crowd ok before I gave up after so many people were taking off in front of me.

On the left

I decided to come back and surf the left because there was only on other guy over there. I ended up chatting with him sharing waves back and forth. His name was Osamu and he had taken the day off work to surf. He was surprised at my Japanese and was like, “whats up with the bike?” I told him that I had biked from Kujukuri Beach. He offered to give me a ride back home on the condition that I stay and surf 15 more minutes. It was super cold, and I was honestly about to get out before he offered to take me home. I caught one more wave and took him up on his offer.

Wet socks drying, surfing with Osamu San.

When We got back to the house Takeo invited Osamu in for some coffee. We chatted, joked around and had a good time together. I got his contact and he said that he would take me to surf Shida Point: where the surf contest for the 2020 Olympics would take place.

Osamu went on his way and Takeo’s friend Kagami came and we had nabe and some sushi for dinner. There was no way that I would turn down this meal from my host. After all It was still thanksgiving at the time in the states, and there was much to be thankful for. So I enjoyed my thanksgiving meal of nabe with my new friends.


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